If there’s one thing that unites us Indians, it’s undoubtedly our love for desi liquor. And one such fascinating liquor originates in the North East, called Apong. Well, there are many names and unique recipes, but we’ll get to that later. For ages, rice-based liquor has been a staple across Asian countries. India itself has a rich history of preparing alcoholic beverages from rice such as handia, zutho, lugdi, and even apong. Let’s explore this unique northeastern beverage, which is exclusively hand crafted by women.
An Introduction To Apong
Apong or Apo is a traditional rice beer brewed by the tribal communities of North-East India, particularly in Arunachal Pradesh and Assam. It is known by different names across different tribes in Northeast India as mentioned below:
- Haaz – Ahom tribe
- Apong – Mising tribe
- Zou – Bodo tribe
- Sujen – Deori tribe
Apong is not commercially sold but passed down through generations in the form of oral storytelling and traditional recipes. The drink is considered to be auspicious and is prepared only during important festivals of these tribes like bihu, marriages, and ancestor worship ceremonies. The tribal people offer the drink to their ancestors every time they drink it by letting a few drops of the drink fall onto the ground.
Origins Of Apong
The origins of Apong can be traced back to Assam. It is believed that the Mising tribe was the first one to develop this drink here. The Mising community is known for its love for cooking and preserving traditional recipes. In fact, it is believed that the recipe was shared by this community with other tribes across North East India. Apo is not the general term used to describe rice-based alcoholic beverages, but each tribe has its unique name for this drink. Each tribe has a slightly different brewing process, but the main substrates used in the fermentation remain the same.
Preparation Of E’pob
Commonly produced in Arunachal Pradesh and Assam, its variations, especially in the brewing process, are common in other parts of North East India. Traditionally, two kinds of Apong have been brewing in these regions, known as Apong Nogin and Po:ro. The drink is produced by fermenting cooked rice with starter cakes called E’pob.
These starter cakes are made of crushed rice and medicinal herbs. These herbs are sun-dried for about 10 to 15 days and pounded into a fine powder. This powder is then mixed with soaked rice grains and it is beaten consistently by adding water until a sticky mixture is formed.
This mixture is then shaped into round balls and left to sundry. In this drying process, these cakes are placed between layers of paddy straw and rukji leaves to prevent microbial intervention.
Fermentation And Extraction Of Apong
Ash from the burnt paddy husk is mixed with cooked rice, which gives a distinct black color to the mixture. Once done, starter cakes are pounded into a fine powder and added to the black rice-ash mixture. This mixture of E’pob and the rice and ash is then stored in an earthen pot for fermentation. The mouth of the pot is closed to facilitate proper fermentation and is sealed off with rukji leaves and dried straw.
The fermentation process differs depending on the season. In the summers, it takes roughly 5 to 8 days, but the same process takes about 12 to 15 days for best results.
When it’s time to extract, the apong is poured into a conical bamboo basket (Ta:suk). It is lined with banana leaves and paddy straw is placed at its bottom to act as a filter. Then, water is poured gently into the opening of the basket, which filters through the mixture and the subsequent liquid that seeps from the basket – apong, is collected.
Women’s Role In Making Apong
It might sound fascinating that the drink is exclusively made by women of these tribes, but this fact is deep-rooted in patriarchy. Traditionally, brewing apong, just like cooking any other food, has been seen as a household chore, and these chores have been majorly done by women for ages. Men refrain from learning the process, and this unique tradition has then been passed down from one generation of women to the next.
Brewing apong is a tedious process and is quite labor-intensive. However, women enthusiastically take part in making this drink to preserve their culture. Today, the drink is not sold commercially and is in fact, not even consumed by Assamese people. It’s only these indigenous tribes that prepare and consume their traditional liquor. The recipe for this unique rice concoction is an oral heirloom that trickles down generations and has survived the test of time, thanks to its womenfolk.
Summing Up
Rice-based alcoholic beverages have been a staple in Indian culture, and each region has its own unique take. Today, even though desi liquor doesn’t enjoy much popularity on a global scale compared to ‘western drinks’, many tribes and communities are trying to preserve their local liquor. After all, it is not just a liquor meant to intoxicate its patrons, but also a part of local culture that needs steady revival.
FAQs
Is Rice Alcohol Healthy?
Appropriate consumption of rice alcohol helps blood circulation, promotes metabolism, and can nourish blood and the skin.
Which Indian State Consumes The Most Alcohol?
The state with the highest alcohol consumption in India is Arunachal Pradesh. Here, 52% of men and 24% of women consume alcohol, according to the 2020-21 National Family Health Survey.
What Is The Alcohol Content Of Apong Rice Beer?
Apong rice beer has an alcohol content of about 18-25%. Although the alcohol content seems less, the beer is quite intoxicating.
